Saturday, September 11, 2010

Clerical Dress in the City of Rome in the 19th Century

From the New Liturgical Movement, by Maurizio Bettoja:

"A series of historical photographs have recently come to light, coming from the papers of a Roman princely family and taken between 1850 and 1880 by the famous Roman photographers, D’Alessandri. These photographs show not only members of fashionable Roman society, but also include photographs of a number of prelates and ecclesiastics, almost all of whom were of noble birth. Most of these wear the traditional abito corto, while several others wear either the new abito Piano, or formal choir dress...." (continued)

Abbé Gaspard Mermillod (1824 + 1892)
One of his time’s great preachers, he was created bishop of Lausanne and Genève, despite much opposition from the protestant Swiss government, and later a Cardinal.
Dressed in French 19th centurgy style, he is wearing the cassock and buckleless shoes, while his “Roman” – but really French - hat rests on the chair.
Cardinal Nicola Clarelli Paracciani (1799 + 1872)
The cardinal is wearing a zimarra, with the short pellegrina and sleeves, but with red piping as in the Pian dress; on his breast, on the cassock, but under the pellegrina (pushed aside to display the decoration), the star of an Order.

Msgr. Edoardo Borromeo
A member of the great Milanese princely family, he was Maggiordomo of Pius IX who created him Cardinal. While wearing the abito Piano, he still has the very large traditional Roman hat, instead of the French round hat. The Pian dress is without the pellegrina, reserved for cardinals and bishops.

Fr. Emiliano Neri
A Carthusian monk, he is photographed in a picturesque and melancholy pose, his immaculate habit arranged in noble, graceful folds; note the white hat. 
Sr. Guendaline de Raymond, in religion Mother Marie Veronique Giuliani, 1873.
The formality of the setting – the damask covered table, the rich crucifix – correspond to her rank as abbess, shown by the long train, an emblem of jurisdiction.
This nun, definitely a beauty, strikes a melancholy, elegant and romantic pose. Note the curious style of her shoes, of the same material of her dress. 

Pius IX and his Nobile Anticamera Segreta
The composition of this famous photograph is at the same time extremely formal, and picturesque. All the members of his Court are wearing choir dress and mantelletta, except cardinal Antonell, who wears the new-fashioned abito Piano.
Amongst those that can be identified, from left Mons. De Mérode, Cameriere Segreto Partecipante, kneeling; Mons. Borromeo, Maggiordomo; Mons. Talbot, Cameriere Segreto Partecipante; Mons. Hohenloe-Schillingfurst, Elemosiniere Segreto, later cardinal; Mons. Negrotto; card. Antonelli, Secretary of State; Mons. Pacca; Mons. Martinelli, Sacrista di S.S., later cardinal. Note the huge Roman hats.

No comments: